Cumberland and Vicinity – Go for the History, Architecture, Recreation, and Scenic Railroad By Dave Zuchowski Article
| All Aboard for the the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad Credit all photos to Bill Rockwell |
Cumberland, once Maryland’s second largest city, has since faded into a sort of quiet inconspicuousness. But the town, located at the juncture of the Northern Branch of the Potomac and Willis Creek, is surprisingly interesting for a number of reasons.
Much of its important
history is based on its being both a starting point and a terminus. First,
prehistoric animals blazed a trail north through the mountains, then came
prehistoric man. Later, a Native American by the name of Nemacolin showed early
White settlers the way north, which would also be followed by young George
Washington and General Braddock on his way to take Fort Duquesne from the
French.
Washington in particular had a large presence in Cumberland, first as a 16-year-old surveyor, where he saw his Native American at the Michael Cresap House (now a museum) in Oldtown, then as a 21-year-old envoy to the French entrenched at Fort Leboeuf. Washington’s subsequent travels in 1753 from Cumberland led to Fort Necessity and the start of the French and Indian War.
Two
years later, he was aide-de-camp to General Braddock when they and 2,000 elite
British troops marched north from Fort Cumberland past St, John’s Rock near Frostburg
as part of their ill-fated campaign. Modern hikers take note: The rocky
precipice is said to be a hard to get to but an exhilarating experienc.
Washington’s
last visit to Cumberland came in 1794 when he reviewed federal troops preparing
to close down the Whiskey Rebellion.
| Washington's Headquarters |
Today,
visitors can view Washington’s Headquarters, a log cabin originally built between
1755 and 1758, that is the only surviving structure from Fort Cumberland. Housed
in Downtown Cumberland in beautiful Riverside Paik, the cabin can only be
viewed from the outside but visitors are permitted to glance into the interior
through its glass windows.
| Mile Marker Zero on the National Road in Riverside Park |
Cumberland
is also the starting point for the National Road, the first highway funded by
the federal government that headed north then west on its way to Vandalia,
Illinois. A zero-mile marker monument can be found in Cumberland’s Riverside
Park.
| Inside a car in the excursion scenic railroad |
As
a terminus, Cumberland was also the goal of the rival Chesapeake and Ohio Canal
and the B & O Railroad. Both vied to reach Cumberland first to capture the
transport market to Ohio country. The railroad arrived first in 1842, 8 years
before the canal. Although the canal ceased operating in 1924, it has been
transformed into a historic national park, virtually a 184.5-mile-long hiking
and biking trail.
The National Park Service oversees the park, and exhibits about
the canal can be found in the historic Western Maryland Railway Station. The
building features a museum with interactive displays on canal construction, a
Paw Paw Tunnel model, and a full-scale canal boat replica.
| A Display in the Allegheny museum |
One not-to-miss Cumberland attraction, the Allegany Museum has been ranked as one of the top ten small town museums in the U.S. The museum touches on subjects in an interesting way about topics like Paleo Indians and artifacts from 12,000 years ago, a Paleo dwelling, the National Road, the canal and rail history, Washington and Fort Cumberland, local brewing history, a collection of wooden sculptures, and local industries such as Kelly tires and the glass industry.
| A Model of Fort Cumberland |
Highlights
include a painting of Nemacolin leading settlers along his namesake trail, a
model of Fort Cumberland and an AI regression that simulates Washington at the
various ages that he visited Allegany County.
| Emmanuel Episcopal Church |
Cumberland is home to some remarkable architecture, and visitors can take a historic walking tour highlighting 32 buildings. These include the gorgeous, red brick, county courthouse and Emmanuel Episcopal Church, build on the site where Fort Cumberland once stood. Besides having three Tiffany stained-glass windows, the church rests on the fort’s earthworks, and tunnels below have been rumored to have sheltered runaway slaves as part of the Underground Railroad.
| Baltimore Street in Cumberland |
On pedestrian friendly Baltimore Steet, visitors can find unique shops such as the Emporium, Cumberland’s premier antiques and collectible store, outdoor dining and the historic Embassy Theatre.
| Curtis Coney Island Famous Wieners |
Nearby at 17 N. Liberty, Curtis Coney Island Famous Wieners has been in the same location for 58 years, but dates back to 1918. While the small diner serves hamburgers, fish sandwiches and milk shakes, the focus is on the hot dog, which hasn’t changed over the years and comes with chili sauce, raw diced onions and mustard.
At the F. Brooke Whiting House and Museum, you’ll find a
collection of antiques assembled by the house’s namesake, a worldwide traveler
and connoisseur, who selected art and antiques during his travels.
For recreation, Allegany County has 200 miles of developed
biking and hiking trails, and at Lake Habeeb at Rocky Gap State Park, visitors
can canoe, kayak, paddleboard and swim.
| Tracks and Yaks Rail Bikes |
In
Frostburg, adventure enthusiasts can rail bike via Tracks and Yaks, a rental
enterprise. With a number of rail bike ride selections to choose from, the Mountain
Ridge Rider option is a 3-hour downhill ride over bridges, through Brush Tunnel
and around two horseshoe curves.
| Ready to Board the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad |
One of Cumberland’s most popular attractions, the Western
Maryland Scenic Railroad, offers round trip rides from Cumberland to Frostburg,
nearly 1,000 feet up the mountain and back, in vintage cars pulled by diesel-electric
and steam locomotives.
In
addition to gourmet lunch and dinner excursions, the rail line also lists murder
mystery, ice cream and sunset-on-the-mountain excursions.
| T |
| The Coal Miner’s Memorial |
In
Frostburg, riders can watch the engine reverse direction on the historic turntable,
walk to the nearby Miner’s Memorial and explore one of the nation’s largest
collections of antique horse-drawn carriages at the Thrasher Carriage Museum,
Other
attractions to consider are the circa 1835 LaVale seven-sided toll gate house
and the historic town of Mount Savage, where the first iron rail was pressed in
the nation and home to the Evergreen Heritage Museum.
Cumberland
is home to a number of culinary trails but the most interesting of the lot is the
Mountain Maryland Orange Crush Trail, seven different stops where you can try
variations of the cocktail made with vodka, triple sec, freshly-squeezed orange
juice and a splash of lemon-lime soda.
If
you like festivals, two of the area’s most popular are the Del Fest, a
bluegrass music festival held over the Memorial Day weekend, and the
Appalachian Fest, held in Frostburg this year on September 17-19. For a Place to Stay,
For
more information on Cumberland and vicinity, phone (301) 777-5132 or visit www.mdmountainside.com.
Note: This article was originally published in Go Xplore Magazine of the Washington Observer-Reporter.
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